Three Layer Cake

Potstickers, gyoza, gow gee, har gow, siu mai, whatever you call them, dumplings--  I love them.  When I was in New York over Christmas, my friends took me to Gum Fung Restaurant in Flushing for dim sum.  (136-28 39th Avenue, Flushing, NY 11355 TEL: (718) 762-8821)  I love dim sum.  I love dumplings.  I loved the char siu so much I convinced a different friend to take me back to Gum Fung the next day.  The day after that, I changed states and straight off the train went to Mark's Duck House in Falls Church, Virginia, for more char siu and dumplings galore.  In Rome, I have dim sum at Grand Dragon (via Nomentana 49),  in Paris, Midory hand-makes theirs, two kinds, and Yauatcha in London is mad expensive, but worth every tiny morsel.  [Intro and internal photos:  dipping dishes by mud australia, plates by Williams-Sonoma]

As I sat down to study a menu for what I hope will be my upcoming birthday party (which will take place probably a month after my birthday), I came across a potsticker recipe in a Martha Stewart book.  It reminded me of a potsticker recipe I regularly use from an old copy of Fine Cooking magazine.  It resuscitated my desire to have dim sum.

Although I have been known to roll out the dough for the wrappers for these potstickers, it's much faster to buy the wrappers at the store (won ton or gyoza wrappers, they are round, about three inches in diameter and lightly floured).  My Taiwanese friend assures me that her mother uses store bought wrappers also, so that takes the guilt away, in case you were worried.  Potstickers, which are also called 'gyoza' in Japanese restaurants, gow gee in Cantonese, and I'm sure many other names in other countries, are good party food because you can make vegetarian and even vegan options along with meat options.  They can be frozen, and thawed later, they can be steamed (in which case I guess they are steamed dumplings) or fried (then they become fried dumplings or potstickers).  They are always good.

The recipes I have seen call for a mix of dried and fresh mushrooms, cabbage, celery, and ginger; pork and shrimp; ground chicken and vegetables.  I add carrot to mine when I don't have celery.  The proportions for the  vegetable filling should be slightly less balanced than 50/50 vegetables and mushrooms, with a bit more vegetables (about 12 oz. or 350g)  than mushrooms (about 200g).  Adding a teaspoon or so of fresh ginger, salt, and a bit of pepper per the above portions.  Saute first the mushrooms with vegetable oil, then add a tablespoon of soy sauce and two tablespoons of roasted sesame oil.  Set the mushrooms aside to drain, and saute the vegetables.  At the end, mix in the mushrooms and put everything in a colander to drain for about 15 minutes.  

Equipped with a pastry brush and a dish of water,  fill the wrappers with approximately 1 tablespoon of filling each.  Brush the edges with water to seal.  You should be able to make 48 with these proportions.

Heat oil in a large frying pan, and lay the potstickers starting in the center and radiating out.  I like to put them all together (see picture below-- the browner ones are the ones I placed first!).  Let them brown well before adding 1/2 cup of chicken broth.  Cover and let simmer until the broth evaporates.  (Don't burn them!)  If they aren't browned enough already, brown them a bit more.  To release them, drizzle a tablespoon of oil around the rim, shake the pan, loosen with a spatula, and use a plate to turn them over.  I think this is greatly facilitated by using a nonstick pan, but that's up to you!  Try experimenting with different fillings.  To freeze, place uncooked on layers of parchment paper and seal in a freezer bag or covered container.   Don't forget your dipping sauce!  (recipe below picture).

Ginger and Scallion Sauce (Fine Cooking magazine, March 1997, by Lily Loh)

Yields about 1.5 cups.

• 4 Tbs. toasted sesame oil
• 4 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
• 4 Tbs. minced scallion
• 6 Tbs. soy sauce
• 4 tsp. dark Chinese rice vinegar, light rice vinegar, or cider vinegar
• 1/2 cup chicken stock
• 2 tsp. sugar
  

In a small saucepan, heat the oil over low heat.  Add the ginger and scallion.  Stir for a few seconds until fragrant.  Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil.  Serve at room temperature.