Three Layer Cake

Via dei Coronari
 
This is the place to go for the finest antiques in Rome.  Along this street there are several shops which specialize in art deco and items through 1970.  You will not make any flea market finds along here, but you may find something to dream about for years to come. 

If impolite shopkeepers don’t make you feel warm and fuzzy inside, you’ll be resigned to window shopping. 

It’s also a good idea to walk all around this area and look in restorer’s workshops.  Sometimes they have pieces they are willing to sell.  Beware:  In these types of workshops “personalized” pricing is rampant, and the explanations they give for their “prices on the spot” are lame.  Here you can try to shamelessly talk them down.  If they don’t reach your price, don’t buy. 

In this area, one shop worth mentioning specifically: 

Lo Scrittoio
Via dei Coronari 102
ranieroaureli at loscrittoio dot net

Very nicely presented shop.  Too bad the owner keeps the door locked, there’s no doorbell, and he pretends not to see you if he’s busy.  Shop contains design pieces from the 1920s through the 1970s, and some of his own designs.  Try to catch it on a day when the door is open.  (To eat, cross over to the other side of Piazza Navona and drop by Cul-de-Sac in Piazza Pasquino, or La Focaccia next door to Bar della Pace)

 
Markets

The popularity of flea markets in Rome has grown markedly in the past 7 years, indirectly proportional to the probability of finding a good deal.  It’s usually a good idea to not spend a lot of money in a market, but to take care of your transactions in a store, as many of the exhibitors at the markets also have shops during the week.  Kind of like investment advice—never spend more than you can afford to lose in these flea markets, unless you’re an expert on the item you’re looking at.  The number of fakes which are fobbed off as originals has grown in proportion with the popularity of these markets.  If you’re able to negotiate in Italian and keep a poker face, you might walk away with something worthwhile.  Checking at a well-stocked newsstand, like Antica Edicola on via Veneto in front of the Excelsior hotel, for La Gazzetta del Antiquariato will show a listing of all markets in Italy each month, by region.

 
The biggest and best:

Porta Portese
Every Sunday
At the end of viale Trastevere, where it becomes via Ippolito Nievo, the furniture part of the Porta Portese market starts.  This is a true flea market.  It’s hit and miss.  Most Roman deal seekers will tell you to go very very early, as the vendors are unloading.  Otherwise, the deals will disappear as the sun comes up.  Watch your valuables.  If junk and dirty crap gives you the vapors, don’t go. 

Ponte Milvio
First Saturday afternoon, and Sunday (all day) of the month
This market extends for one kilometer starting at Ponte Milvio down to the next bridge.  There is a little bit of everything here, new and old.  Beware of the stand, about halfway down, which sells fakes of artwork by Italian contemporary artists. 

Piazza Verdi
Last Sunday of the month
Similar to Ponte Milvio, but better quality furniture (old).  (Before beginning at Piazza Verdi, have a coffee and cornetto bianco (croissant with almond paste) from Il Cigno pastry shop on viale Parioli.  These croissants come hot from the ovens and sell out every day, before they have a chance to get cold.  After 8,30, abandon all hope. It's safer if you get there before 8,00.) 

Villa Glori
Via Maresciallo Pilsudski, Second Sunday of the month, but check
This market tends more toward crafts than furniture, but it’s worth a visit.  (Try to make your trip coincide with meal time at nearby Jeff Blynn’s.  Very expensive, but a wonderful American style Brasserie.  The menu covers all areas, from Sushi to hamburgers and hand cut French fries.  The outdoor eating area is great.) 

Arezzo
If you can take the time, go to Arezzo, just 2.5 hours north of Rome, or 1.25 if you drive like I do) the first Saturday and Sunday of the month.  It is one of the biggest and widely considered to be the best market in Italy for furniture finds.  These people are pros, so you’ll have to be on your toes to get a deal.  (My ulterior motive for going to this market, since I rarely buy anything, is to eat at Antica Trattoria da Guido.  You should, too.  But reserve first, because during the flea market, these places are booked days in advance.)