Three Layer Cake

I went to Bopha Devi two nights in a row because I couldn’t get enough of the k’dom chicken and crab appetizer, and that was before Bopha Devi’s new location received three rave reviews in the local papers just last week.  If you’re visiting Melbourne, or if you already live there, Bopha Devi is a must.  Just the healthy home-style Cambodian cuisine which focuses on fresh and authentic ingredients is enough to justify a visit.  The owner, Chan Uoy, and the chic environment he has personally designed in his second restaurant at Melbourne’s New Quay in Docklands (the first Bopha Devi is in Yarraville, a Melbourne suburb) are two more reasons you won’t regret your restaurant experience.

Despite his background in accounting, Chan Uoy decided six years ago that he wanted to pursue a career that involved his love of food.  One day, walking in Yarraville with his mother, he saw a quaint commercial space for sale and his future became clear:  he’d open a restaurant which served the cuisine of his native Cambodia.  They jotted down the number, went home, called and the next day made an offer.  The offer was accepted, and within a few months the shop at 27 Ballarat Street with just 25 square meters of dining space was theirs.  Chan hoped that his desire to introduce Cambodian cuisine to the Melbourne-area would be well-received.  Bopha Devi, named after Cambodian Princess Norodom Bopha Devi (meaning "flower queen" in Sanskrit), lived up to Chan’s hopes.

The small Yarraville shop proved to be a wise move for Chan and his uncle, who prepared the menus and food.  From very early own the restaurant drew healthy interest and is now practically ‘reservations only’ (unless you know someone).  After six years with Yarraville Bopha Devi fully booked most nights, Chan felt certain enough to make the next step to a larger place.  He located a space in the newly developing Docklands and in summer 2005, the Uoy family opened a second Bopha Devi, close to Melbourne’s Central Business District.  This is where I met Chan.

Bopha Devi at Docklands has a stylish modern interior with low slung benches and long linear dark wood tables which contrasts with its Khmer cuisine.  The eye-catchers are the glitzy barfront and laser cut chandelier whose design Chan supervised, drawing on the logo of the restaurant.  Chan is not only a keen restaurateur, but also has a flair for interiors.

As host, Chan listens very carefully to the words his guests say as they discuss the menu.  If they ask his recommendations, he’s poised to answer.  In my case, I couldn’t decide between a noodle dish (lort char) or a rice dish (bai char).  In Chan’s experience, the attraction to the rice dish meant I was homesick and wanted something nurturing, so I ordered the noodles!!  No worry, the next night I ordered the rice and was equally pleased.  The satisfaction must have shown on my face because Chan asked if I’d like to be a ‘taster’ for some of the kitchen and bar’s new creations as they prepared new menu items for the busy Christmas season.  I put down the book I was reading and allowed myself to savor the fried (caramelized) bananas with black sesame seeds and smooth mango martini.  I so hated to leave (because everything about the experience was all so good and the company was great) that I must have subconsciously left my book behind when I got up to leave!  Attentive host that he is, Chan contacted me and arranged to have my book dropped off at my hotel so I’d have it to read on the flight home.   It doesn’t get much better than that!